The tea-total non-distillery tour of Islay (A homage to the home of the peaty malt industry)

 

 Aug 28th - Sept 2nd 2020
 

The plan….  Do a sea kayak /camping circumnavigation of the island of Islay but start by portaging across Jura from the mainland (oh & none of the distilleries are yet open for business post lockdown)

Day 1, Friday Aug 28^th 2020
 
Drove across Glenshee, Aberfeldy, Loch Tay, Tyndrum, Dalmally, Inverary, Lochgilphead then winding down Crinan and Tayvalich to edge of the Island of Danna.  Parked up, loaded my trusty Tiderace PACE 17S and away at 1410hrs.  Out beyond the rock finger at Keills and then north before going straight across westwards to Jura.  The crossing was hardwork with N wind F3 and a small chop (8 kms across). Exited in Tarbert Bay across the sand by the chapel and up the landrover double-track that heads NW. Bits were very bumpy so it took a while to ensure the load stayed on the portage trolley – slightly soft pneumatic tyres were a real boon.  Actually met two estate landrovers coming out as I tackled the last 200m. Anyway they were smiling behind their covid masks!

Quickly repacked the boat and launched again about 6pm into the lovely quiet inner Loch Tarbert with sunshine and peace. It is tidal but I didn’t see much flow through the narrows at Chumhain Bhig  (max my GPS reported was 11kph). Great scenery in the loch with a few moored yachty visitors and some estate fishing/working boats. Out of Loch Tarbert after 12 kms and the final push for the day with an increasing NW wind.  The crossing to Rhuvaal light on Islay was in a bigger rolling swell going south into the mouth of the Sound. I was heading directly into the sun (very late afternoon) due west, and it became dusk as I completed the crossing.  Nice sunset as I was landing on the first big beach past the light (Dhoruis), good job it had been a clear skies sort of day. So dinner was late and eaten in the tent. A total of 34kms for the day including the 2 km portage. Had spotted some seals but not much else.
 

Day 2, Saturday
 
Early alarm and launched at 0845. Still aiming west along the top of the island with a large lumpy “beam on” sea, bright skies though. Avoided the shallows at Gruinart Bay, past Ardnave Point, and saw some good looking landing/lunch spots on Nave island (for the future). Got some downwind action as I turned the corner to head south but also had to well aware of the sharp rock reefs extending out from the foreshore. Pulled over for lunch after a satisfying and refreshing 25kms at Fleisgein Bheag beach.  Unusual for me but took a good 45mins time-out here. 
 

Then onwards past alternating headlands and beaches on Islay’s exposed west coast. Sea state a little easier across Kilchoman Bay (about 38 kms so far – distillery #1 spotted on the rise) but it was big & lumpy for the final hour down to Lossit. 

Had maintained a good average speed so able to get an early finish at 41kms on a beautiful beach. Good campsite and still had some sun to dry out my gear – brilliant.

 
Day 3, Sunday
 
Off at 0915 to get the tides right round the Rhinns. It was a quieter sea and indeed so calm that I diverted around the outside of Frenchman’s Rocks. Lots of seals hauled out including pups so had to choose my route carefully – too far out and I would be heading Stateside.  So out wide and then cut inwards between Orsay & its neighbour.  Great little tidal overfalls there to surf across.

Tidal flow changed about this point and I could feel it starting to oppose my run east round Rhinns Point.  Eddy hopped a bit and turned north east towards Loch Indaal and Port Charlotte for lunch.

 
As a family we have good memories of Port Charlotte & Bruichladdich as we had once acquired a hogshead of spirit (in the year 2001 when the distilleries re-awakened instead of permanent closure) to mark one of life’s occasions – the family whisky is now well into its drinking phase.  The little light at Port Charlotte is still well maintained; Bruichladdich on the other hand was hidden in parts by scaffolding, I guess lockdown has allowed bigger maintenance to take over. 

Post lunch it was a gentle paddle across the idyllic throat of Loch Indaal to Laggan Head where a pair of buzzards were spotted soaring above the shoreline.  Maybe I thought of this as idyllic because there was nearly an hour’s worth of downwind paddling involved with a 1 - 2 ft swell and bright skies. In exploring the rock formations and crevices towards Laggan Point, I noticed that there was lots to do (explore) but only a few landing sites.  A pair of eagles came by to out-trump the buzzards, they took no notice of me.  The flatter sea state south across Laggan Bay was a little tiring  but with good mileage achieved I decided to go on to my second choice camp further round The Oa.  Arrived at a beach next to Eileanan Mora with many tall fractured rock formations in the bay.

Interesting place with wild goats passing through plus the farm’s free-range cows but there were remarkable cliffs and dykes as well.  Westward facing and a gentle breeze so minimal midgie menace.  42 kms for the day.

 

Day 4, Monday
 
Nearly missed my planned start time due to having a friendly farmer chat and as he was so positive I also did a litter pick of the shoreline.  Away by 0930 and round below the American Monument which seems to loom above you from sea level. 

Lumpy seas but it was bright; fresh from the SE (so the forecast was right as a new weather system became relevant).  There are great cliffs and rock inlets along the south coast of The Oa – tremendous scenery.  The opposing flow maybe started an hour early (springs) but it was manageable across to Rhubha nan Leacan. Then it was 6 kms NE up to Port Ellen lighthouse (Carraig Fhada) for lunch in its wind shadow, watched the Calmac ferry arrive at the big pier across the way.
 

So now a section I’d really looked forward to… across east and 4 distilleries within 4 miles. Of course I can visit none this year but they are great buildings from the sea – to think of the millions of litres of pure spirit  just resting there and becoming amber.  First off, Port Ellen (both a sleeping distillery and the local maltings for entire Islay), some interesting skerries to steer round and of course until I get past Texa the flow is against me.  Laphroaig next, then Lagavulin, and Ardbeg last.  Lagavulin sits inside a fortress of rock with 4 ft waves surging into the entrance under a grey sky – just a magic way to arrive.  Anyway – sugar sweetie time looking at Ardbeg jetty; got about another 15 kms to do before camp.

Some pretty large lumps of rock stick out from the SE corner of the coastline, some interesting paddling and some positive flow now as I’m well east.  Then a steady run to head north to Ardtalla. 

My planned campsite didn’t look that good I so went further north and landed on a beach just before McArthur’s Head.  Brilliant site. 

Sunny evening.  Chill time.  Waves crashing on the sand 20 yds from my tent.  Completed 39 kms for the day.
 

Day 5, Tuesday
 
Sunny start again looking at a steady breeze up the Sound of Islay from the south.  Aim to complete the circumnav and get back into the innards of Jura today.  But had an extra half hour relaxation as I want the peak tide up the way instead of using up my meagre muscles.  Briefly checked out the bothy at An Cladach on the way past as I hadn’t been there before – its tiny! 

Then steamed up to Port Askaig for coffee & sandwich from the shop.  Drizzle started now but peak stream so about 17 kph passing the upper channel light.  Got photos of Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain distilleries on the way up the sound.  

 

Once opposite the lighthouse at Rhuvaal that completed the actual Islay loop. 

Paddled east into the slash across Jura (Loch Tarbert) and the visibility dropped, the mountain down-draughts made themselves felt, and paddling became a challenge once more.  Presumably with a southerly wind the big hills create turbulence and each mini-Glen funnelled gusts across what should have been sheltered waters.  I could still see the raised beaches on the north shore though and the hundreds of tonnes of pebbles that must be a good 50 ft above the current shore level.  At times I seemed to have my own spot of blue sky above me and a rainbow to the NE; fantastic atmospheric action all around.  Seals, stone dykes & caves make up the horizontal views.

 
In to the first narrows (Cumhann Mor) and about a 3 or 4 kph assist but no excitement.  An interesting area to paddle through and will be worth a return visit some day. The odd estate boat moving clients about (or farmers moving their sheep), curlews around.  The final narrows at Chumhainn Bhig were again an anticlimax – dead smooth and only 10 kph on the GPS.  However after the work out in the drizzle/rain it was very pleasant to cruise eastwards in a more stable evening environment.  The final reward for being there was to spot a golden eagle soaring above a woodland on the side of Glac Mor, and then a sea eagle resting on a far shingle bank.  I drifted downwind and tried to take some pictures and it sat there looking at me (it struck me as being the same size as a turkey! But with a wicked hooked beak).  

It finally opened its enormous wings and moved another 200m away – magnificent bird.  40 kms for the day.
 

Day 6, Wednesday
 
Stormy all night in the tent and misty across the loch in the morning, I woke early with the nylon rattling about.  Made my porridge and had coffee anyway and then went back to reading a novel for an hour.  Once there were pauses in the wind/rain I went out for a stroll to reconsider my plan for the day.  Decided to do the portage across to the Jura east coast in the wet stuff and assess the sea conditions there.  The portage seemed to be a bit easier this time (maybe I had loaded the bags on the trolley better?) and I was back on the grey beach at Tarbert in about 45 minutes.

 

Packed the boat and headed out beyond the headland to see – still squally & grey!  However there weren’t any real whitecaps just roly-poly wave sets.  Headed due east for a km and then added in a 30 deg offset to allow for a southbound tidal flow.  The far side was a brown smear without clear landmarks to start with so mainly paddling with the deck compass; GPS actual track was my backup.  Got to the halfway point (about 4 kms) and conditions remained steady – vis improved and I had a big white house to aim for – wind possibly 20 kts blowing up the Sound of Jura.  Carried on with the graft and was soon able to veer down tide for the last 500m approach to the point (better able to judge landfall on the thin sliver of a rock finger of Rubha na Cille  (otherwise it was land on Gigha maybe).  Rounded that point and got the relief of going north (=downwind today) and the smooth waters near the Island of Danna.

 

Job done…. Back to the car after 210 kms and 5 nights away.  Went from sun to wetness to wild winds to midgies – of course the highlight was getting to see the sea eagle. Also I had paid homage to the distilleries along the way but didn’t even have a single dram.
 
Pretty satisfying trip.
 

 

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