West to east – paddling ten islands and then the birdless Bass Rock



Nov 30th – Dec 1st

So a free weekend and a good “high pressure” forecast, what to do?????  For other reasons I started the weekend in Helensburgh and had to finish it in Edinburgh. 

So Saturday the 30th at -2 deg C air temperature and an absolutely classic blue sky day.  I launched my fast sea kayak on to Loch Lomond just south of Luss in complete stillness and calm.  It seems there are at least 10 islands /islets in the southern end of the loch and to loop them all looked like about a 25 kms paddle.  Would fit nicely into the winter daylight hours and get me back at the beach by about 14.30hrs.


I had a rough plan and so went north east to start with – great views up to Ben Lomond on the right bank and the Cobbler on the left.  Looping past Inchtavannach and down by Inchconnachan I spied a sunken /capsized sail boat.  Called the Sea Witch and sitting on her side flooded she did not look healthy – nobody around in trouble though.  I did check later and gather from the rangers that this is not a new incident and they have a plan!



Cruising at about 7-8 kph I went south to Creinch and then off round the largest island of Inchmurrin.  A few cottages and a boatyard all seemed deserted as I went by.  The sea plane made itself felt though as its turboprop engine is quite a distinctive drone that intrudes on the peace.  Some other guy as well over the east bank in a Cessna doing aerobatics.


 I went across and in to Balmaha bay for a leg stretch / coffee break.  The last 50 yds near the jetty was still a sheet of thin ice so I had great (childish) fun carving through it.  Two paddle-boarders turned up and happily popped out on to the Loch whilst I was there; sun was shining still but I guess it would be good to fall in.


Round Inchfad and north through some narrows saw me once again in open water up towards Strathcashell Point, but still flat calm and easy going.  Round Inchlonaig and west into Luss bay.  The very low sun by this stage was straight in my eyes as it approached the horizon line.  Under the pier and back along to the beach.  Lovely.



Day 2 was to be nearer Edinburgh so I looked at the currents and planned a trip out from North Berwick.  As the Bass Rock is really only a couple of kms out, I drew up a circuit that would cover the 3 lumps of rock in this neighbourhood and be about 23 kms.  There was a freshish breeze from the west so the sea was not glassy smooth but good enough.




On the opening westward (upwind) leg I detoured a bit to meet up with a guy on a SOT just to say hello – he was a local just out for the exercise too.  The coastline here is a bit tricky as it has long fingers of rock reaching out maybe 500m from the surf line and it pays to keep your eyes peeled. Up past South Dog, round North Dog and then by the magic that is downwind paddling I was zooming along.




Past outboard of the Lamb and Craigleith, and onto the 5 km stretch across to the Bass Rock which had been looming over the trip all the time.  Very few birds on the rock at this time of year but that wasn’t why I went anyway.  It looked magnificent in the winter sun.


Headed due south to have a look at Tantallon Castle sticking up from the headland – it looks like there’s just the one remaining fortified wall standing  - a few tourists up on the battlements watching over me.  Then to get back I was upwind again but with a little tidal flow to help.  Past the Leithies and into Milsey Bay.  A quick run through  small surf and I was back on the beach without mishap, and before the light went.  Who says that paddling is a summer sport!


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