The second half of loop 1 saw us on the exposed north coast
of Moskensoya (the most westerly main island of the Lofoten chain) and we had a
great day with a big downwind leg. We saw
the 3 big beaches on this stretch (Kvalvika, Horseidvika & Buneset) but not
much surf. This section is the real
wilderness part of Lofoten but in reality the walk out if things had gone wrong
isn’t impossible.
The downwind rush went so well that we made the southwest tip of the island by 9pm and set camp at the back of Buvagen Bay after 47 kms. In a lot of ways reaching Buvagen was the crux of the whole loop so we were pleased – remember that a km or so offshore here is the “maelstrom”.
The following morning was bright and blue so we just had to scramble our way up Hellsegga (544m high) and take in the panorama.
These hills aren’t that high but they are definitely steep. By 6pm we’d scrambled back down, struck camp, paddled another few hours and were having a coffee break on the decking at the Brygga restaurant in the harbour at A.
Had a rest day (day 12) from the sea by walking up Floya (590m) – this is the mountain behind Svolvaer the main town of the islands – and under deep blue skies got some great views across the area from the twin summits. There was also the “Devil’s Bridge” rock to stand on with its significant fall exposure (good photo opportunity though). Had dinner in a smart restaurant in town including cod’s tongue as a starter and various baked cod main courses. Beer was £7.50 a pint. Lovely sunny evening amongst the tourists.
On the south coast of Moskensoya we also paddle-explored the
inland routes behind the coastal villages (Djupfjord, Kjerkfjord, Forsfjord etc)
before heading north up the sound of Kakersundet and back to Ramsburg.
There’s
a number of pretty impressive bridges to see all round Lofoten that are “Skye
Bridge” lookalikes; some of which need the right tidal direction to get under
but never delayed us by more than about 90 mins. Saw another sea eagle on this section but it
was being mobbed by the Terns presumably to protect their nesting sites.
Loop 1 was completed at a total of 279 kms in
the boats and 3 hill walks.
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